Justus Drugstore, The Restaurant
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Johnathan Justus has done something extremely admirable in creating an amazing destination restaurant in the remote downtown area of a town that has otherwise been forgotten. In that, he has proven that not only can excellent-quality, locally-sourced, and gourmet food be had anywhere, but that it doesn't have to be expensive or stuffy to be enjoyed. In fact, if anything, Justus Drugstore errs on the side of being too casual, with crumpled paper menus and slightly under-skilled service that bring the standard down a notch or two, but don't let those things deter you from experiencing some of the best food that Kansas City has to offer! Try the Turkey 'Fries', Goat Cheese Fritter salad, and Fried Rabbit Loin.
Atmosphere
Located in what once was the family drugstore (hence the name), Justus Drugstore the restaurant is simple and unadorned, with clean lines and warm earthy colors of sage and pumpkin. Unfussy wood tables are spaced throughout, and a wide open kitchen takes center stage, so you can see the chefs preparing your meal. Low-lit candles give the room a romantic glow, though the restaurant itself is not exactly romantic. Modern music plays softly in the background, and dark carpet covers the floors. An outside patio offers comfortable dining with intimate lighting, though the menu offered there is different from the one inside.
Service
Justus Drugstore makes a point to be 'un-fussy' and, though for the caliber of the food I would have preferred a more polished service. That said, our server was pleasant and friendly, and explained the food well.
Food
Justus Drugstore offers a small but elegant menu of dishes made from locally-sourced ingredients. To begin, a complimentary amuse-bouche of chicken liver mousse on a crostini, drizzled with a fruit gastric was an excellent way to begin and was, in and of itself, the perfect bite.
For the first course, turkey 'fries' ($16)(AKA turkey testicles- yes, that's right, turkeys have testicles. Who knew?) were delicate and tender, similar to sweetbreads, and doused with a delicious shitake and pork confit cream that was even more delicious when mopped up by the outstanding crusty and yeasty bread (made in-house, of course).
Equally outstanding was a goat cheese fritter salad ($9), made with local Missouri goat cheese soaked in a rose-scented honey, lightly breaded, and perfectly fried, served on a pile of fresh field greens with fresh strawberries and a shallot vinaigrette.
For entrees, a Majinola Kobe Brisket ($22) with a house-made root beer braise, vanilla butter, and honey sassafras vinaigrette was a tiny bit dry, but had a unique earthy and sweet flavor that set well against a simple celery root puree and spicy vanilla pepper.
With it, a delicately-fried Loin of Rabbit ($25) with tender tarragon potatoes, and crunchy lovage and endive in a fragrant and mustard cream was, without a doubt, the standout of the evening. Both entrees came dramatically piled at the corner of large, square white plates. A rustic yet effective presentation.
For dessert, a fresh berry Napolean ($7) was beautifully plated, with raspberries, blackberries, dollops of cream cheese white chocolate mousse, and house-made pastry wafers, though the berries were overpoweringly tart in their whole-state, and the delicate pastry was too thin to stand up to the tasty, but heavy, mousse.
Keeping in line with the inexpensive theme, Justus Drugstore has a nice selection of wine at reasonable prices. We selected a lovely bottle of Catena Zapata Malbec for $35. Coffee was good, and served in an individual French Press.
After dinner, a complimentary digestive of honeysuckle and Riesling completed the evening on a sweet note.
For the first course, turkey 'fries' ($16)(AKA turkey testicles- yes, that's right, turkeys have testicles. Who knew?) were delicate and tender, similar to sweetbreads, and doused with a delicious shitake and pork confit cream that was even more delicious when mopped up by the outstanding crusty and yeasty bread (made in-house, of course).
Equally outstanding was a goat cheese fritter salad ($9), made with local Missouri goat cheese soaked in a rose-scented honey, lightly breaded, and perfectly fried, served on a pile of fresh field greens with fresh strawberries and a shallot vinaigrette.
For entrees, a Majinola Kobe Brisket ($22) with a house-made root beer braise, vanilla butter, and honey sassafras vinaigrette was a tiny bit dry, but had a unique earthy and sweet flavor that set well against a simple celery root puree and spicy vanilla pepper.
With it, a delicately-fried Loin of Rabbit ($25) with tender tarragon potatoes, and crunchy lovage and endive in a fragrant and mustard cream was, without a doubt, the standout of the evening. Both entrees came dramatically piled at the corner of large, square white plates. A rustic yet effective presentation.
For dessert, a fresh berry Napolean ($7) was beautifully plated, with raspberries, blackberries, dollops of cream cheese white chocolate mousse, and house-made pastry wafers, though the berries were overpoweringly tart in their whole-state, and the delicate pastry was too thin to stand up to the tasty, but heavy, mousse.
Keeping in line with the inexpensive theme, Justus Drugstore has a nice selection of wine at reasonable prices. We selected a lovely bottle of Catena Zapata Malbec for $35. Coffee was good, and served in an individual French Press.
After dinner, a complimentary digestive of honeysuckle and Riesling completed the evening on a sweet note.
Cleanliness
Immaculate restaurant and nice bathrooms, but the crumpled and dirty paper menus were a turn-off.
Pros
Amazing food, Superb quality, Reasonable prices, Complimentary amuse-bouche and digestives
Cons
Service under par, Dessert not as outstanding as the meal.
